I’m pulling up roots and moving to south-western Colorado. Oregon, for all the great things about it: Smith Rock climbing, perfect climate, amazing athletes, my mother, father, sister, niece, and nephews, it has not been able to come up with good snow to ski, steep ice to ascend, or mountains to run.

By Halloween I hope to be re-situated in Ridgway or Ouray Colorado where I plan to be for a long long time. That community has a lot to offer: many great friends who already live nearby. World-class ice climbing such as Bridalveil Falls, Ames Ice Hose and many smaller hidden gems. The Black Canyon offers serious rock climbs a half hour away or one can score a couple of hours of cragging by walking to the Pool Wall from town. Red Mountain Pass can be incredible backcountry skiing, not to mention nearby Crested Butte and Telluride Mountain resorts. To top it off a small airport is but 30 minutes away in Montrose.

Living in the ‘Rado (jeez, I hope I’m cool enough) will allow me to be more effective in my role as an ambassador for climbing. To a similar end it will give me a much better environment to work in as a field-tester developing products for Patagonia and Grivel.

I spent eight years of my younger life training to achieve certification as a Mountain Guide in 1999, and that has largely been missing from my life in Oregon. To that end Vince Anderson and I will be working together at his Colorado-based guiding company, Skyward Mountaineering. http://www.skywardmountaineering.com/

Being close to more diverse climbing will also help facilitate the mentorship program I am helping to develop through the American Alpine Club. It is my hope that within a few years this program will blossom to aid alpinism's future students.

As some of you know, I leave a wonderful woman and her two amazing children. There is a massive hole in our four hearts right now that will take a long time to heal. I want you all to know that we part on good terms, each understanding that this change is necessary. Perhaps in Colorado I will be able to take part in creating a family of my own.

Have no doubt, I still have a couple K2's and Makalu's in my near future, but I turned forty last week (barely, luckily). Perhaps it took an eighty-foot fall for me to realize that I've done a lot for myself, it's time to move on and it's time to give back.