Makalu 2011

Post-Expedition Update:

As you may know by now, we are all safely back from the 2011 Makalu Expedition. For links to satellite-phone reports visit here.

The trip was interesting on a number of levels as we came with several different objectives that I outlined last winter in my original post.(below) Of course the main goal for me and Marko was to climb a new route on the west face of Makalu. Simply stated, to climb this wall in good, light-weight style would be a milestone in alpinism. Marko and I were fairly focussed on that objective.

Luka, Rok, and Boris changed their objective a few times. Eventually Luka and Rok got within 250 meters of the summit on the normal route on a very cold and windy day. I want to say that the term normal route is deceptive on a mountain of this scale, it only gets climbed every few years (I believe a total of 4 ascents this year, there were a couple of other oxygen-assisted ascents, but those don’t count in my book).

One of the lessons of this expeditions was that for us to go to such a monsterous peak as their first 8,000’er was a judgement error on the part of Marko and I. My first 8,000’er was Cho Oyu, which is a total piece of cake in comparison, similar to climbing Denali. Makalu is steeper, higher, and simply more massive; a much more difficult proposition. To wit: Most parties who summit Makalu spend four days about 7,400 meters. By comparison on Cho Oyu the high camp is at 7,300 meters and from there to the summit takes most acclimated climbers (again, only counting those not cheating) about 8-12 hours.

THE WEST FACE...

...was almost a non-starter in part because both Marko and I objected to acclimating on the normal route, which shot us in the foot because it was pretty hard to get properly acclimated without going up there. We shunned the normal route because we both hate the trashy fixed lines, and we don’t relish the drama-scene that exists on all normal routes on big mountains these days. There are simply too many climbers breathing bottled oxygen and getting in way over their heads. This can end tragically as it did on our last days on the mountain when a Swiss climber died. Marko and I tried to get four O2 bottles up to her, but before we could reach her location (at Makalu La, 7,300 meters) we got word that she had passed.

In hindsight, the coolest thing that Marko and I did was an acclimatization trip we made as a traverse; a very long ridge that runs south to north and lies just west of the Makalu base camp. We figured it was about 10km/6mi long and we crossed four summits between 22,000 and 24,000 feet high, finishing on 7,000+ meter Chongo Peak smack on the border with Nepal and Tibet. Along the way to doing this first traverse (Chongo Peak had been summited before, but we can find no records of any of the other peaks being ascended.) In all we spent four nights at altitude and despite high winds, we enjoyed clear views of the west face.

Marko and I did eventually get on the West Face, climbing to 7,000 meters. I felt my lack of endurance that day, something that had been a recurring theme on this expedition. I simply don’t possess the endurance to climb this wall since my 2010 accident. A week later Marko and I went up for one more attempt, but a raven, or the wind, stole one sleeping pad we’d cached near the base. We spent one night at 6,600 meters sharing one pad, and it simply didn’t work. The weather turned bad two days later anyway, which would have been only enough time for us to get high on the wall, but not enough time to get to either the West Pillar or the summit as we were envisioning needing six days to do the route.

Will I return to Makalu? I simply don’t know. After three trips to the same objective, I can’t say I’m too psyched right now. That said, after so much effort, I feel that I finally know what needs to be done to make the ascent.

I think that the real question now is this: Am I willing to meet the mountain on the terms it demands? I can’t know that answer right now.

On the Chongo Ridge Traverse at 7,000 meters.

Chamlang is the big peak in the background

Some of the technical climbing low on the West Face

Looking up the West Face from around 6,250 meters

The Team!

Posted January 2011:

Marko Prezelj is organizing an expedition to Makalu this Spring and I will be joining him as will Rok Blagus (SLO), Luka Lindic (SLO), Boris Lorencic (SLO), and Dr. Scott Boughton (USA). The average age of Marko and I will be 43.5. The average age of the other five climbers; 24.6 years. Dr. Boughton will have ample opportunity to explore and trek, but will also endeavor to keep us healthy and light-hearted. I’m confident that he can do both.

Our objectives for this expedition are numerous and diverse. First among them is not to be tied down by the expectations of others. To that end we are funding the expedition through the Slovenian Alpine Association and the balance coming out of our own pockets. We will invest a lot of ourselves, in many ways, and in return we will retain full ownership of the process and the outcome. A fair trade for certain.

In climbing terms our plan is to attempt new routes or first alpine-style ascents. To the alpine-style-end we might try the West Pillar (French, 1971). For new routes we need not look further than the miles and miles of unexplored terrain on the south and west faces of the mountain. If all goes right, we won’t step foot on the normal route until we stand on Makalu’s summit to descend.

This will be Marko’s second expedition to Makalu and his 25th to the Himalaya. For me personally this will be my third trip to Makalu since September 2008. While I certainly hold ambitions to climb well on this trip, the more interesting aspect of the expedition is to share it with younger and markedly less experienced climbers. The young-pups will learn a few tricks from us old-dogs, but I’m sure that Marko and I will be more than repaid in inspiration as well as quality experience.

This group is strong; every individual lively, talented, and motivated.

As a team we have decided that there will be no expedition website. We will carry a sat-phone to BC to stay in touch with loved ones, use for emergencies, and access weather forecasts. Outside of that we’ll stay completely focussed on our surroundings, our objectives, and the important, immediate relationships between us.

For me personally, it will be a good test of my recovery post-Mount-Temple. But I go into this trip truly light on expectations. I know, without having to search for that sensation, that we will focus on process, climb well, and with a little luck we will get into enough trouble to have a great adventure.