In September 2009, with Patagonia Books, I published my first book Beyond the Mountain.
Beyond the Mountain
Beyond the Mountain is comprised of stories spanning 18 years of my climbing and personal life. The book starts with the dramatic tale of attempting the 13,500-foot (4,100m) high Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat (26,660', 8125m) and ends with the story of my ultimate success on that great mountain. That 2004 climb drove me to re-examine the highs and lows of life as experienced by a man who has set out to become the best alpinist and climber he could become. The 17 chapters in between the first and the last document the journey.
"There are no words of the "climax" on the summit, no words of victory. Instead, Steve tells about suffering through freezing cold bivouacs, the discomfort of high-altitude, the deep emptiness after a high success."
Scott Johnston began coaching me in 2003 and over the next two years my climbing abilities skyrocketed. In 2010 Scott and I began outlining this book; distilling the lessons we learned through applying state-of-the-art athletic-training principles to my alpine climbing goals. Three years of work has resulted in an in-depth translation of what we learned about training for alpine climbing. We worked hard to create a manual for any climber, of any ability, of any fitness level. We want you to be able to use the same techniques, strategies, and exercise progressions I used. We want you to harness the same benefits I saw in my climbing.
Training for the New Alpinism is a manual that guides you in constructing a simple, progressive training program lasting from six weeks to a year and beyond. The book has been heralded as a road-map to greater alpine climbing success for climbers of all abilities.